How Malört Became The Chicago Liqueur Everyone Loves To Hate

Malört, a bitter Swedish liqueur, has become an iconic yet polarizing symbol of Chicago's drinking culture, embraced as the spirit everyone loves to hate. Originally crafted in the early 20th century by Carl Jeppson, a Swedish immigrant, Malört's intensely bitter flavor is derived from wormwood, a plant known for its medicinal properties and extreme bitterness. While Jeppson initially marketed the beverage as a medicinal tonic, it gained a cult following during Prohibition due to its strong taste, which was difficult to counterfeit and thus trusted by discerning drinkers. Over the years, Malört has maintained a peculiar reputation. Its harsh, lingering taste deters many at first sip, yet it has become a rite of passage for Chicagoans and a quirky novelty for visitors. The liqueur's mystique is bolstered by its bold marketing campaigns, which embrace its divisive nature, turning its bitterness into a badge of honor. This approach resonates with the city's blue-collar ethos, cementing Malört as a Chicago staple. Whether it’s the allure of its challenging taste or the camaraderie fostered over shared reactions, Malört remains a unique fixture in Chicago’s cultural landscape, celebrated for its defiant identity.
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How Malört arrived in Chicago

The Swedish-inspired drink emerged in Chicago, introduced by Swedish immigrant Carl Jeppson. During the Prohibition era of the 1920s, he developed a version of bäsk, cleverly disguising it as a medicinal tonic to circumvent alcohol restrictions. The liqueur was notably bitter and herbaceous, making it easy for authorities to accept it as a remedy. Jeppson asserted that the wormwood-infused concoction aided digestion and eliminated parasites. The demand among fellow Swedish immigrants was sufficient to sustain his business until he eventually sold it. While other immigrant communities in Chicago also enjoyed this distinctive spirit, its fame never extended beyond the city limits.

In the 1930s, George Brode acquired the liqueur and rebranded it as Jeppson's Malört. According to the company’s website, Brode promoted it as the "dry-est, dry liquor," even adding a sprig of wormwood to each bottle. Known for its intense flavor, Malört became a favorite among blue-collar workers, often enjoyed alongside an Old Style beer. However, it never achieved the same recognition as other potent digestifs like Fernet.

In recent years, Malört has gained renewed attention, thanks to Chicago bartenders and adventurous mixologists eager to preserve this historic drink. As a result, the bitter liqueur has started appearing more frequently in cocktails throughout the city. In 2019, CH Distilling acquired the brand, ensuring its continued existence. Today, Malört is celebrated as a symbol of Chicago, enjoyed for its unique and unforgettable flavor.

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